Aldwick Pets Bognor Regis

Which breed of rabbit should I choose?

Lops

Lops generally have very good natures.  They are docile and friendly, making them a good choice for children.  Lops come in various sizes,  Mini lops being the smallest followed by Dwarf lops and then there are the giants such as the French lop, and English Lop.  Lion lops are basicaly a mini lop with longer fur, in particular a mane around their face.  As with all long haired rabbits they will need regular grooming to prevent them from becoming matted.

Due to their floppy ears, lops are more prone to ear wax than other rabbits, although this rarely becomes a problem, it is a good idea to clean out their ears regualy wth ear drops.

Netherland Dwarfs 

These are one of the smallest breeds of rabbit you will find.  They are popular due to their very managable size.  Although not usually aggressive, Netherlands are very highly strung and therefore do not make good pets for young children. 

When purchasing a Netherland always check the teeth for maloclussion (mis-alignment), as this is a common problem with the breed.  A rabbit with this problem is best avoided as the teeth will need very regular clipping.  A rabbit with maloclussion should never be bred from as it is an inhereted problem.

Rex

Rex rabbits are unusual in that they have a velvet like coat, their fur is very plush and soft to the touch.  They are intelligent rabbits with lots of personality.  We find they are the easiest rabbits to litter train and therefore make good house rabbits.  They become very tame and are a good choice for older children.  Standard Rex are a fairly large rabbit, and Mini Rex are simply a smaller version of these.

Rex can sometimes suffer from sore feet if left on wet or soiled bedding or if only a thin layer of bedding is used.

Dutch

Dutch are the original childrens pet rabbit.  They are small to medium sized and are generally well behaved rabbbits, with few health problems.  They are a nice easy first rabbit.

Lion heads

These are medium sized rabbits with long fluffy fur.  They are quite livley but usually friendly.  They will need regular attention to grooming, it is therefore important that they are accustomed to his from a young age. 

Being long haired they tend to be more prone to fly strike than most rabbits and therefore both the rabbits and their hutches must be kept extra clean.  Regular use of a preventative treatment such as fly guard is also recomended.  Some people prefer not to use wood shavings in the lionheads hutch as it becomes tangled in their fur.  A good alternatinve would be a wood based cat litter or Back to Nature bedding. 

Should I choose a Buck (male) or a Doe (female)?

As a single pet we would normally recommend a Buck, they are usually more even tempered than Does.  If they are not bred from, some Does will have regular phantom pregnancies, where they will bulid a nest, pull out their fur, become temperemetal and sometimes aggressive for a week or so.  However this is not true of all Does, and spaying will normally prevent this problem altogether.

Can rabbits be kept in pairs?

Rabbits are naturally sociable animals and generally prefer to have company.  If you feel you will not be able to give your rabbit sufficiant human attention, it is kinder to keep it with a companion.  If you are considering keeping a pair of rabbits it is best to get two either from the same litter or of similar ages and adult sizes.  The best combination is a buck and a doe with the buck being neutered.  However two Does will also normally get on fine if they are brought up together.  Two bucks will normally start fighting when they reach maturity.  This can sometimes be prevented by having them both neutered before this becomes a problem.

It is sometimes possible to introduce adult rabbits but care must be taken.  It is important they are introduced on neutural territory and carefully observed for the first hour or so.  If there is any sign of serious fighting they will need to be seperated immediatly.   Some rabbits take to newcomers better than others.

What should I feed my Rabbit?

There are many different opinions on the best food and feeding routine for rabbits.  The following is what we find works best for our rabbits:

All our babies from weaning are fed daily on 'Excel Junior' dry food, alongside an ad lib amount of meadow hay.  They are also given a daily handful of 'ReadiGrass' (this is a dried grass which we find is great for reducing digestive problems in youngsters).  Greenfoods and carrots are also fed in small amounts.  Aways try to give dark greens and never give letttuce to babies.

From 5-6 months of age our bunnies are fed as adults and are fed an ad lib amount of Meadow hay alongside 'Excel Adult' dry food (or Netherland Dwarfs can remain on the junior thoughout there life).  Adult rabbits must be given only a limited amount of dry food or they will put on to much weight.  The quantity will vary according to breed, but there should be no food left over by the next day.  Our adults also get Greenfoods and carrots.  Adults which are going through a moult can be given a sprinkling of sunflower seeds on there food.  These are good for conditioniong the coat. Also some dried grass is good at this time.

Prevention of Parasites?

Rabbits can quite readily pick up fleas as well as a range of other mites and parasites which are detrimental to their health.  We find that the best way to prevent this is the use of iveremectin regulaly.  All our babies are treated before they leave us for their new homes, and we recomend this treatment is continued.  We find the best product for this is 'Beaphar Spot on for rabbits and guinea pigs', this is ivermectin in the form of drops on the back of the neck and should be repaeted every 4 weeks.

Does my rabbit need vaccinations?

Rabbits can be vaccinated against both Myxamotosis and VHD.  Myxi is a fairly common disease amongst pet rabbits, it is spread by fleas and other insects and is quite often fatal.  Vaccination is recomended either 6 monthly or yearly depending on the degree of risk in your area.  All of our breeding stock receive regular myxi vaccinations and all our babies leave with a £5.00 discount voucher against their first jab.

VHD is a slightly rarer disease seen in pet rabbits, however it is extreamly serious and if contracted generally results in a quick death.  A vaccine against this is also offered by vets but cannot be given at the same time as the myxi.

Will my rabbit need grooming?

The amount of grooming your rabbit requires will depend on the breed.

Short haired breeds will obviously require less attention to grooming, a quick going over once a week with a soft bristle brush should be sufficiant.  All rabbits go through a mollt around every 3 months, where they shed their old coat.  During this time a bit of extra grooming is helpful and ensures the process is completed quickly and the new coat remains healthy.  A slicker brush is useful for removing dead hair.  You can also use a dry shampoo or grooming spray to clean and condition the coat and give extra shine.

Long haired breeds will require daily grooming to prevent the fur from becoming matted.  A slicker and a comb are best for these rabbits,  it is a good idea to use a grooming spray alongside these to help remove tangles.

Rabbits ears can be cleaned with cotton wool and warm water.  Done reguarly this will help prevent the build up of wax and ear mites.  Regular use of ear drops are also a good idea, particualy in lop eared breeds.

Rabbits claws will need clipping reguarly, usually around every 6 weeks, but this varies according to how much exercise the rabbit is getting on hard ground.  When clipping your bunnies claws be sure to use clippers designed especially for small animals and avoid cutting past the quick (the vein which runs down inside the claw).  This is clearly visible in white claws.  If you are unsure about clipping the claws yourself you are welcome to bring your bunny in and we can do this for you.  We operate this as a free service,  just call us to arrange a conveniant time.